What is it?
An extract of frankincense, the fragrant gum resin (also called olibanum) collected from cuts in the bark of Boswellia trees. This ingredient is made from the dried, ground gum of Boswellia carterii, a species also known as Boswellia sacra. It is used in skin, hair and nail care as a conditioning ingredient and as a fragrance ingredient. Frankincense has been collected and used since ancient times.
Key information
- It is made from the dried, ground gum resin of Boswellia carterii, also classified as Boswellia sacra.
- The FDA permits olibanum from Boswellia carteri and other Boswellia species as a natural flavoring in food.
- We found no CIR safety assessment of frankincense gum extract, and the EU places no restrictions on it.
- Allergic skin reactions to Boswellia extracts have been described in case reports.
More information
Frankincense is harvested by cutting the trunk of Boswellia trees and collecting the resin. The resin contains fragrant volatile oils, resin acids known as boswellic acids, and a sugar-based gum. In a 2016 analysis, boswellic acids made up about 29 percent of the gum resin of Boswellia sacra (B. carterii). The cosmetic ingredient is an extract of the dried, ground gum, and its exact makeup depends on how it is extracted.
We found no assessment of frankincense gum extract by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) or the EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. The EU’s CosIng database lists it with no restrictions, as a conditioning and perfuming ingredient. Frankincense is also permitted in food: the FDA allows olibanum from Boswellia carteri and other Boswellia species as a natural flavoring substance.
As with other botanical ingredients, allergic reactions are possible. A 2004 case report in the journal Contact Dermatitis described allergic contact dermatitis from a cream containing an extract of a related species, Boswellia serrata. Frankincense is also the subject of many health claims, especially for supplements; the 2016 analysis called some claimed boswellic acid contents “simply unrealistic.”
On labels, look for Boswellia Carterii Gum Extract. It is a different ingredient from frankincense essential oil, which is listed as Boswellia Carterii Oil.
Sources: European Commission CosIng: Boswellia Carterii Gum Extract; Molecules (2016): Quantitative determination of boswellic acids in Boswellia sacra (syn. B. carteri) and Boswellia serrata; eCFR: 21 CFR 172.510, Natural flavoring substances; Contact Dermatitis (2004): Allergic contact dermatitis from Boswellia serrata extract in a naturopathic cream
