What is it?
The fragrant water collected when damask rose petals, Rosa damascena, are distilled, often as the by-product of making rose oil. It holds small amounts of the rose’s scent compounds, mainly phenethyl alcohol, geraniol and citronellol, dissolved in water. It is used in skin care, makeup and other cosmetics, and rose water and dried petals are also used to flavor food.
Key information
- In 2022 the CIR Expert Panel concluded that rose water is safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
- Phenethyl alcohol, which dissolves well in water, is the main scent compound in rose water, while rose oil is richer in citronellol and geraniol.
- Hydrosols such as rose water usually contain less than 1 gram of essential oil per liter.
- In the U.S., rose flowers and their natural extractives, including distillates, are generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for use in food.
More information
Rose water is often a by-product of distilling rose oil: steam or boiling water carries the flowers’ volatile compounds into a condenser, the small amount of oil is separated, and the water that remains is rose water. It takes about 4,000 kilograms of flowers to make 1 kilogram of rose oil, and hydrosols in general hold only traces of essential oil, usually less than 1 gram per liter. Because it dissolves well in water, phenethyl alcohol is the main compound collected in rose water; one analysis cited by the CIR measured up to 39.53 percent phenethyl alcohol, 24.01 percent geraniol and 10.26 percent citronellol among the compounds detected.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel reviewed rose water with nine other damask rose ingredients in 2022 and concluded that they are safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-sensitizing. Rose water was reported in 302 formulations. A fragrance product containing 0.1068 percent rose water did not cause sensitization in a repeat patch test with 100 people. The Panel noted that geraniol, citronellol and other rose constituents are potential allergens and advised formulators combining several botanicals to keep them below levels that could cause problems.
Rose water also has a long history in food, especially in the Middle East, and rose flowers and their distillates are GRAS for use in food in the U.S.
On labels, look for Rosa Damascena Flower Water. It is not the same as rose oil, which is far more concentrated, or rosehip oil, which comes from the fruit.
Sources: CIR: Safety Assessment of Rosa damascena-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics (2022); Molecules (2024): Unlocking the potential of hydrosols; Cornell LII: 21 CFR 182.20, Essential oils, oleoresins (solvent-free), and natural extractives
