What is it?
An oil obtained from the seeds of evening primrose, Oenothera biennis, a plant native to North and South America whose yellow flowers open at sunset. It is unusually rich in polyunsaturated omega-6 fats, mainly linoleic acid plus gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). In cosmetics it is used as an emollient in creams, lotions, lipsticks and makeup. It is also widely sold as a dietary supplement.
Key information
- The CIR Expert Panel reviewed evening primrose oil with 243 other plant oils and concluded that they are safe as used in cosmetics.
- Linoleic acid makes up 60 to 85 percent of its fatty acids and gamma-linolenic acid 7 to 12 percent, according to figures compiled by CIR.
- A foundation containing 1.99 percent evening primrose oil caused no irritation or allergy in a patch test on 600 people.
- Taken as a supplement, it has not been shown to relieve the symptoms of atopic dermatitis (eczema), according to the NIH.
More information
According to figures compiled by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), linoleic acid makes up 60 to 85 percent of evening primrose oil’s fatty acids and gamma-linolenic acid 7 to 12 percent, with only 5 to 12 percent oleic acid. A 2017 review of topical plant oils notes that linoleic acid has a direct role in keeping the skin’s water barrier intact.
The CIR Expert Panel reviewed 244 plant-derived oils, including evening primrose oil, and concluded that they are safe as used in cosmetics; its final report was published in 2017. Evening primrose oil was reported in lipsticks at up to 15 percent. A foundation containing 1.99 percent caused no irritation or sensitization in a patch test on 600 people, and across the many oils reviewed, the Panel found that refined plant oils are generally not skin irritants or sensitizers. It asked suppliers to keep limiting pesticide residues and heavy metals, as for any botanical ingredient.
Many people know evening primrose oil as a supplement. The NIH’s National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health (NCCIH) says that, taken by mouth, it has not been shown to help atopic dermatitis and is probably no more effective than a placebo for breast pain, and that there is not enough evidence to judge other uses such as PMS or menopause symptoms. NCCIH describes it as probably safe for most adults, with digestive upsets the most common side effects, and notes that some herbs and medicines interact.
On cosmetic labels, look for Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil.
Sources: CIR: Final Report on Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils as Used in Cosmetics (Expert Panel meeting, March 2011); International Journal of Toxicology (2017): Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils; NCCIH: Evening Primrose Oil; International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2017): Anti-inflammatory and skin barrier repair effects of topical application of some plant oils
