What is it?
An essential oil distilled from frankincense, the aromatic gum resin of Boswellia trees, also known as olibanum. This ingredient comes from Boswellia carterii. Its scent comes mainly from terpenes such as alpha-pinene and limonene. It is used as a fragrance in cosmetics, and olibanum is a permitted natural flavoring in food in the United States.
Key information
- In two commercial frankincense oils analyzed in a 2016 study, alpha-pinene was the main constituent, at about 23 and 32 percent.
- Pinene and limonene must be named on EU cosmetic labels above 0.001 percent in leave-on or 0.01 percent in rinse-off products.
- The FDA permits olibanum from Boswellia carteri and other Boswellia species as a natural flavoring substance in food.
More information
The oil is obtained by distilling the resin, and its makeup varies from batch to batch. In a 2016 analysis of two commercial Boswellia carterii oils, alpha-pinene was the largest component in both, at about 23 and 32 percent. In one sample it was followed by limonene, alpha-thujene, p-cymene and sabinene, and in the other by caryophyllene oxide and limonene.
Frankincense oil has not been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, and it is not among the essential oils the EU requires to be named on labels. Two of its main constituents are, however. In 2023 the EU added pinene to its list of fragrance allergens that must be named above 0.001 percent in leave-on or 0.01 percent in rinse-off products, and limonene is on the same list. EU rules also cap the level of peroxides in both.
Allergic reactions to frankincense oil itself appear to be rare but do occur: a 2021 case report in the journal Contact Dermatitis described allergic contact dermatitis from Boswellia carterii oil. The FDA permits olibanum from Boswellia carteri and other Boswellia species as a natural flavoring in food.
On labels, look for Boswellia Carterii Oil. If you are allergic to fragrance ingredients, look for pinene and limonene on EU-style ingredient lists.
Sources: EXCLI Journal (2016): Essential oils from the Burseraceae family, chemical composition and antifungal activity; Contact Dermatitis (2021): Allergic contact dermatitis from Boswellia carterii (frankincense) oil; EUR-Lex: Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 on labelling of fragrance allergens; eCFR: 21 CFR 172.510, Natural flavoring substances
